crispy chicken with fennel, lemon & olives

This may be the last oven-based recipe I can share for awhile.  You see, earlier this evening, the boneless pork shoulder that had been slowly roasting away in my oven all day was just about done, when my oven gave up.

And by “gave up” I mean: Quit.  Stopped working.  Died. Said to me, “I don’t care that you have an 8 pound leg of lamb to roast and 12 people to feed on Sunday.”

The service company claims they’ll come on Saturday. But experience – which I sadly have (who designs ovens to have the computer chips between the stove burners and the broiler, pray tell??)- well, experience tells me that the person on Saturday will likely spend the time diagnosing a problem I’ve already told them I have, and will then reschedule the repair.  And I’ll be trying to figure out how to roast a joint of lamb and bake an Easter pie using a gas grill.

Is it sacrilegious to hope that I’m wrong, and that this Easter will also mark the resurrection of my oven??

Anyway, back before the oven began plotting its mutiny, I made this lovely braise that came from Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc cookbook.  Continue reading “crispy chicken with fennel, lemon & olives”

breakfast for dinner, italian style

My grandfather, Chip, made a great breakfast – the kind that just can’t be replicated.  I don’t know whether it was some special ingredient (doubtful, though something tells me he used bacon drippings for frying his eggs), the years of culinary patina on his griddle (possible, though even my grandmother’s eggs don’t quite equal Chip’s), or the fact that he whistled “Raindrops Keep Fallin’ on My Head” while he made them (don’t tell me that’s not an ingredient).  But I think that it’s most likely all of those things, combined with the fact that he’s not around to make us those breakfasts anymore.  Whatever the culinary and emotional alchemy, they were excellent, and I miss them, even though I’m not much of a breakfast person.

Actually, that’s not entirely true. Continue reading “breakfast for dinner, italian style”

canalons a la catalana

There’s this great publication that hit the foodie market in the past year.  Canal House Cooking is a self-published, thrice-yearly gem (more book than magazine) from two “home cooks writing about home cooking for other home cooks.”  These “home cook” authoresses, however, happen to have deep experience in the food and food writing industries (Saveur, Cooks’ Illustrated, Martha Stewart Living – you begin to see why I’d be a natural fan.)  Their combination of homeyness and expertise – not to mention the beautiful photography, interesting head notes, and hefty paper stock – makes their publications absolute pleasures to read, and even more enjoyable to cook from.  And, I totally want to go spend a day (or a week) with these two – they sound like they really know how to enjoy a day.

Anyway, I received the Spring issue last week and traded any hope of a clean kitchen for the luxury of reading it cover to cover and dog-earing the projects I wanted to try.  This recipe was part of their “Pasta Lesson” and seemed perfect for the mini-dinner party that we had planned for Friday (I choose to call one super-fun couple joining us for a dinner in which The Lad and Lass did not partake a party.  We certainly imbibed enough for it to count as such.)

I skipped the pasta-making part of this recipe, making what could have been an extremely elaborate project just an elaborate one.  But to call it “elaborate” is not to say it is scary – in fact, it was far simpler than I had expected.  The components are all very simple, and you can make it ahead and bake it from the freezer.  Really, the only thing that makes this a big deal is the number of dishes it creates – well, that, and the wonderfully rich, rustic-looking, but refined-tasting result.

Now that I’ve raved about Canal House, though, a few notes on the recipe: this is definitely an adaptation.  The original calls for chicken livers to be included in the meat filling, and I’m sure that the livers do add a lovely richness, if you’re into that.  But I can taste livers a mile away, and just cannot abide it, so I left them out – and don’t feel as though we suffered for the omission.

Also, in case you’d want to do a search on the title: Canal House just calls these Cannelloni.  My online research for a meat-free version for Husband (who goes meat-free on Fridays like a good Catholic) brought me down a Google-results path of tracts on what distinguishes cannelloni from manicotti, and whether either is truly Italian.  And what I learned is that this particular recipe closely resembles the national dish of Catalan, making it quite Spanish.*  And, thus, it was particularly serendipitous when our guests, who are wine aficionados, arrived with a spectacular bottle of Spanish red.  Salud!

Continue reading “canalons a la catalana”

pasta with bacon & onions


If you’re a warm-weather and sunshine kind of person, winter can be kind of like re-living high school for three (or five) months every year: you absolutely cannot wait to be done with it while it’s happening … but as it draws to an end, you start to appreciate each experience because you know it’s ending.

And so it’s March, and days are lengthening; snowdrops have popped up, and the kids went out in fleeces today – I am downright gleeful.  But I’m also ticking through all the comfort foods I haven’t yet made this winter, many of which will likely be shelved until next fall as turn my focus to farmers’ markets and sunnier foods.

But I’m acting like I have senioritis again – it is only March, and (as the weather report for tomorrow reminds me) there are still plenty of days to pull out some of my wintertime favorites.  This rustic dish of pasta with a spicy, bacon- and onion-studded red sauce is one such dish. Continue reading “pasta with bacon & onions”

mushroom risotto cakes

I enjoy risotto – in theory.  In practice, I dislike the close attention it requires in its making at home, and at restaurants, I often find the portions and savory flavors overwhelmingly rich.  So, when I happened upon a recipe for Chive Risotto Cakes in Ina Garten’s latest cookbook, I initially dismissed it as a recipe that would require a lot of work that would result in my frying up an already-fat-laden dish. But it was Ina … I should have known better!

Continue reading “mushroom risotto cakes”